Mill Quality Sheet — Rev. 14 — Feb 2026
The bolt starts here.
The story starts with you.
WARP THREADS
WEFT THREADS
INDIGO DYE
FABRIC WEIGHT
WARP THREADS
WEFT THREADS
INDIGO DYE
FABRIC WEIGHT
Two looms. One makes selvedge.
The other makes volume.
Shuttle looms haven't changed since 1930. That's not a limitation — that's the point. The continuous weft creates structural integrity no modern loom can replicate.
Selvedge Mill Standard
Shuttle Loom
| Width | 29.5 in |
| Speed | 90 PPM |
| Selvedge edge | True, 0.5 in |
| Weft tension | Continuous |
| Output/day | 18–22 yds |
| Fabric density | High |
Shuttle looms insert a single continuous weft thread, creating the closed selvedge edge. Slower output yields tighter weave structure and greater tensile integrity.
Industry Standard
Projectile Loom
| Width | 54–60 in |
| Speed | 450 PPM |
| Selvedge edge | Cut, frayed |
| Weft tension | Intermittent |
| Output/day | 80–120 yds |
| Fabric density | Standard |
Projectile looms fire individual weft carriers across the warp at high speed. High output, wider fabric, but cut edges require overlocking — and the weave is less dense.
The Verdict
Shuttle loom output: 18–22 yds/day vs. 80–120 yds/day (projectile). We make less. Every yard is better for it.
Rope-dyed.
12 passes deep.
The core stays white.
Our rope-dye process builds indigo in layers, not all at once. The white cotton core oxidizes differently than ring-dyed alternatives — producing fades that reveal the wearer's movement, not a factory's wash formula.
Wash 0
Raw / Unwashed
100%
Indigo retained
Wash 1
First Wash
92%
Indigo retained
Wash 3
Third Wash
82%
Indigo retained
Wash 6
Sixth Wash
69%
Indigo retained
Wash 12
Twelfth Wash
53%
Indigo retained
Wash 24
24th Wash
39%
Indigo retained
Indigo Retention vs. Ring-Dyed Alternative
Lot Consistency Guarantee
Maximum ±0.3 △E between bolts within a single lot order. Industry standard: ±1.8 △E. Every lot ships with a signed color certificate.
Three weights.
Every one benchmarked.
Weight class determines wear pattern, fade speed, and garment structure. These numbers aren't marketing — they're the same figures your pattern maker needs.
| Spec | 12oz 3×1 Twill | MOST POPULAR 14.5oz 3×1 Twill | 16oz 2×1 Twill | Benchmark Industry avg. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Warp Count | 16s Ne | 14s Ne | 12s Ne | — |
| Weft Count | 10s Ne | 7s Ne | 6s Ne | — |
| Tensile Strength | 68.2 lbf | 82.4 lbf | 94.7 lbf | 61.0 lbf |
| Shrinkage (warp) | 3.2% | 3.8% | 4.8% | 5.2–7.8% |
| Shrinkage (weft) | 1.8% | 2.1% | 2.6% | 2.8–4.2% |
| Lead Time | 8 weeks | 10 weeks | 12 weeks | — |
| Price / Yard | From $14.80 | From $18.40 | From $22.60 | — |
| Applications | Chino-weight jeansSummer denimShirting denim | 5-pocket jeansWorkwearTrucker jackets | Heavy workwearOuterwear denimHeritage reproductions |
Shrinkage Calculator
Enter your target finished dimensions
Post-Wash Results
After first wash (one-time shrinkage)
Length
28.9"
from 30"
Width
31.3"
from 32"
Cut your pattern this size for target finished dimensions
Cut Length
31.2"
Cut Width
32.7"
* Based on cold water wash, hang dry. Sanforized options available (+2 week lead time). Results are estimates; always test with production swatch.
The spec sheet
is already in your hands.
Now feel the denim.
We ship swatch books within 5 business days. Each book includes 4-inch swatches of every available weight, pre-wash and post-wash samples, and the full lot spec sheet.
Request a Swatch Book
What's in the swatch book
4×4" pre-wash swatches
All available weights
4×4" post-wash swatches
After standard wash cycle
Selvedge edge sample
Showing red selvedge line
Lot spec sheet
Tensile, shrinkage, dye data
Lead time calendar
Current availability
Still in research mode?
Download the Full Mill Spec Sheet
12-page PDF. Every weight class, every dye lot standard, every certification. No signup wall — just your email for the download link.
Direct mill contact
Kenji Watanabe
Head of Export Sales
kenji@selvedgemill.jp
+81-6-XXXX-XXXX
JST timezone · Responds within 24h on business days